Monks at Spencer Brewery tap tradition

Monks at Spencer Brewery tap tradition

ST. JOSEPH'S ABBEY SAVORS DEBUT OF ALE

Father Isaac Keeley, director of Spencer Brewery, holds a four-pack of Trappist Ale during a tour of the facility. (T&G Staff/RICK CINCLAIR)

By Kim Ring TELEGRAM & GAZETTE STAFF

SPENCER — Several years ago, the monks at St. Joseph's Abbey realized they needed another way to sustain themselves and to support the abbey where they live.

Over the years they've turned out millions of jars of their popular Trappist Preserves — jams, jellies, conserves and marmalades in a variety of flavors. But that work is labor intensive and the monks, who are an aging population, find it taxing. Making more preserves seemed too difficult. And with a decreasing number of men entering the priesthood, their business making vestments wasn't likely to grow, either.

As they mulled their options, the idea of a brewery came up and was almost as quickly shot down during strategic planning sessions with a group of advisers.

One by one, other ideas came off the table. Father Isaac Keeley and a few other monks, all fans of the brewery option, began doing some research. The monks found Dann Paquette, a craft brewer and founder of Pretty Things Beer and Ale Project. Mr. Paquette had some knowledge of Trappist ales and worked with the monks, allowing one of them to take part in brew days to learn the craft.

In 2009, the monks brewed a batch of ale, made some nice labels and presented the bottles as Christmas gifts to the businessmen and academics on the board of advisers.


The ale had the effect the monks had hoped for: it changed the advisors' minds and plans for a brewery were under way.

"It became clear that if we wanted to do a brewery, really the most sound way to do it would be to do Trappist," Father Keeley, who is now director of Spencer Brewery, said.

That would mean more challenges to earn the right to use the Authentic Trappist Product label, but it was something they felt strongly about.

Products labeled as authentic Trappist must be produced within the walls of a monastery, be produced in accordance with the business practices proper to a monastic way of life and support the needs of the monastic community and its charities. The means of production and related policies are all determined by the monastic community.

Some of the monks, including Father Isaac, traveled to Belgium and toured the Trappist breweries there to learn about Trappist ale. Their ideas weren't exactly warmly received by the Belgian monks who were concerned about the American monks making a less than par product that could affect them.

They worried that the simple process of making ale would be complicated by the Spencer monks, ruining an age-old tradition.

"We all rise and fall together," Father Keeley said. "They asked us to make one thing and make it well."

The monks agreed and convinced their Belgian counterparts that they, too, would keep things simple and not disgrace the family. Still, news that there would be one product produced at the Abbey upset folks working on the brewery's business plan.

"They wanted us to have an alternative plan in case things didn't work out," Father Keeley said. "But we didn't."

Once it was decided to move forward with a brewery, the monks set about creating a product they liked and that started with yeast. There were some intense discussions about whether they should use "the family" yeast their brother monks had been using forever or use something new.

They went to a Belgian university and met with a professor and yeast expert who introduced them to several yeasts that were closely related to the family yeast; having the same genome. She also recommended other, unrelated yeasts.

In the end, a blind taste test would determine which yeast they'd use.

"We did some pilot brews using all the yeasts," Father Keeley explained. "Then we tasted them and no one knew which was which. But when everyone voted, it was unanimous for the family yeast."

That proved the monks in Belgium had been doing things right, Father Keeley said, but "if we hadn't had the taste test, we always would have wondered."

With little fanfare, site work on the 36,000-square-foot facility began in 2008 and continued quietly at the far rear of the property at 167 North Spencer Road, out of public view in an area restricted for use by monks. The building and installation of the gleaming stainless steel equipment was finished in November and the brewing of test batches got under way.

The monks tapped a keg of the ale on Jan. 1 and most enjoyed the flavor and gave the brew high ratings.

Earlier this month the first batch made its way into — and quickly out of — some area package stores.

The ale is not one people would drink at a football game, but rather one to be savored like a fine wine, Mary Jeffcoat, manager of media relations at the brewery, said.

"It's not for quenching your thirst," Father Keeley said. "It's to be tasted."

Spencer resident Matthew Chalifoux was among the first to sample the ale and he was impressed.

"Not too heavy, golden colored, slightly fruity, nice hops on the back end," he posted on his Facebook page. "(A) little toasted caramel flavor, nice effervescence, just enough alcohol flavor. . . one of the most balanced ... I've ever had actually. I think they're on to something."

The monks don't see Facebook or Twitter or anything on television, though they've been busily filming segments about the brewery for airing on many stations, including Al Jazeera. The media attention has likely contributed to the quick sales of the new ale, something the monks weren't expecting as the first runs are slower while they work out any bugs and there seems to be a bit of a shortage.

The ale is distributed by Merrimack Valley Distributing Co. in Danvers, Atlas Distributing, Inc., of Auburn, Burke Distributing Corporation of Randolph, Commercial Distributing Co. of Westfield, and Colonial Wholesale Beverage Co. of North Dartmouth.

Brewing two days a week produces 50 barrels of ale or about 1,550 gallons and while production will increase some as things quiet down on the promotional front, there's never going to be a second or third shift at the brewery no matter what the demand. There is a plan to begin producing kegs for local restaurants where the beer will be served in special chalices made by Libby Glass.

Father Keeley said there are 50,000 glasses ordered and they'll be available for sale at the abbey gift shop where, eventually, they also plan to sell ale.

The monks' lifestyle requires that they finish work, take a light meal together and at 8 p.m. the Great Silence begins. The monks retire to rise at 3:10 a.m. for 3:30 a.m. vigils.

On Sundays, they are allowed to have some of the ale in the evening and while most of the monks had grown accustomed to their traditional wine, many are now converts.

Among them is Father Dominic Whedbee, the abbey's prior who typically works in the preserves operation. He admits he probably hadn't had a beer since college, but said the beer his brothers brew is better than any he remembers from those days.

"I love the beer," he said. "I think it's great.

Contact Kim Ring at kring@telegram.com. Follow her on Twitter @kimmring.